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ST. PETERSBURG -
THE PEARL OF EUROPE

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FROM THE HISTORY OF THE RUSSIAN FASHION
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TRADITIONAL RUSSIAN HOLIDAYS
VALENOKS

The valenoks, traditional Russian footwear used in frosty weather for walking on dry snow, represents a type of warm felt boots made of felted sheep wool. Only 10-12 pairs could be made out of 16 kg of woolen felt. The idea of valenoks was derived from traditional felt boots used by nomads of the Great Steppe (including the territory of Southern Russia) who lived there over 1500 years ago. There is evidence that valenoks in their customary form appeared in the beginning of 18th century.

Usually valenoks are firm, though sometimes they can be made soft as socks and worn under footwear. The bottoms wear out faster than other parts; therefore they are often soled with leather or other durable material. For the same purpose and also to keep them from getting wet, valenoks can be used with rubber galoshes. Traditionally valenoks were made in somber colors – brown, black, grey or sometimes white. Modern fashion trends have brought innovations to this conservative palette kept for many decades: nowadays to please the buyer they manufacture valenoks of various colors (red, blue, mauve, purple, green, yellow, orange, etc.).

Till the first half of 19th century valenoks were rather expensive and could be afforded only by the well-off. Later on, due to the growing influence of city customs on peasant life, traditional peasant footwear lapti (bast shoes) gave way to felt boots thus encouraging in-line production of valenoks. As a result valenoks became much less expensive and quickly gained popularity among the masses.

Before the October revolution of 1917 manufacturing plants were concentrated in Semyonovsky district of Nizhniy Novgorod province. From the middle of 18th century Yaroslavl province also joined in the felting craft due to development of the local sheep breeding. Wool of the Romanovsky sheep is considered to be the best raw material for making valenoks as it has the highest "ability to pelt". In 1904 it was in Yaroslavl province that the largest valenoks manufacture of the time – footwear pelting factory owned by I. Kashin – was established (currently, Yaroslavl Milled Footwear Factory).

Valenoks are associated with the traditional rural style; they are irreplaceable during winter hiking trips. In the cities they are usually worn by small children, but during frosty times when other footwear does not offer much comfort, valenoks may come to your rescue. Valenoks are the basic footwear used by oil and gas workers, and by railway-men, they are widely used in the Russian army as part of the winter equipment of both the commanding staff and the rank and file.

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